In Lycia, Türkiye, the Turquoise Coast beckons. Here, St. Nicholas was born in the 3rd Century while today our Islamic guide calls upon the Archangel Michael’s assistance with inclement weather. Here too, the area’s rich multi-cultural history directs our attention to ancient cliff tombs looming over Greco-Roman ruins. They remind us that in Lycia, the dead are always with us.
Outside my hotel window in Fethiye, Türkiye, the rain is sheeting down. This part of Southwestern Türkiye is known as the Turquoise Coast; it’s noted for sunshine and sparkling azure seas. My first day here is patently the exception, and our itinerary today includes exploring ancient historic ruins – outdoors. I’m thinking my rain jacket won’t be equal to the task, but apparently, I haven’t reckoned with the Archangel Michael.
We arrive at our first destination, and stare through rain-soaked minibus windows at a series of extraordinary openings carved into the rock walls of the cliffs above. It’s going to be a wet walk up more than 200 steps and along rough paths cut into the hillside. But as we are about to set off, the rain eases, then stops, and the sky lightens!
When I exclaim at our good luck, Ozgur Aldemir, smiles benignly. “I have asked the Archangel Michael for assistance,” explains our guide. In Islam, Michael has dominion over natural phenomena, including rain. And he is invoked to ask God for mercy towards humans. For us, mercy will be granted for this entire day, because twice more our bus drives through rain only to find clearing skies – and even sunshine – as we explore each new location!
So it is that we remain dry that first morning as we climb toward what seem to be dozens of empty houses hewn into the rock face. One or two appear grand enough to be the entrances of once magnificent temples. But these are neither houses nor temples; they are tombs. The early inhabitants believed that placing the dead in tombs high up made it easier for winged angels to transport them to the gods.
The largest of these is the 2,400-year-old Tomb of Amynthas, whose stone exterior has been ingeniously carved to represent elegant architraves, wooden doors, even metal bolts. Despite its somewhat derelict state, it’s evident that this was the work of a highly skilled craftsman. This masterpiece of the mason’s art was created as the resting place of the relatively unknown son of an early general. But Amynthas isn’t here.
Indeed, all these tombs are empty, looters having long since done their worst. Still, these carefully carved cavities form a graphic introduction to Lycia, Türkiye, where the dead are everywhere. Scattered throughout the ruins of ancient cities, their empty cliff tombs and large sarcophagi, sometimes perched on high columns, demand our attention. Indeed, archaeologists have a better idea of burial rites than they do of the everyday life of those early Lycians.
“This was part of Mesopotamia; it’s considered to be the cradle of civilization,” says Ozgur. “About 9,000 years ago, Neolithic people lived here because this region had everything – animals, plants, water, good weather. Those early people were the first to domesticate animals; they used the bull for work.”
Today Lycia encompasses the Turkish provinces of Antalya, Mugla and Burdur. Over the millennia, acquisitive invaders came and conquered, and were, in their turn, displaced. Their names are familiar from Biblical passages, and from classics like Homer’s Iliad and Odyssey. Hittite, Phrygian, Persian, Lydian, Greek, Roman, Ottoman – the list is long. We still use phrases like ‘as rich as Croesus’ or refer to someone having ‘the Midas touch’. But few of us know that these two kings, a Phrygian and a Lydian, once ruled here in Lycia. Alexander the Great also conquered this region, and so completely Hellenised it that early language and culture were almost entirely lost to Greek.
While it virtually disappeared as a distinct civilisation, it’s worth noting that Lycia boasts many firsts in human history. Here, the first peace treaty in the world was signed in 1269 BCE – between Hittites and Egyptians, who warred over this land.
And in the 2nd Century BCE, the Lycian League, gave the world another historical milestone – the first democratic union, composed of equal representation from 23 city-states. Indeed, future president, James Madison suggested that the fledgling American confederacy use the Lycian example of proportional representation.
One of the largest of those first city-states was Tlos. Overshadowed by cliffs hollowed out by more of those empty 5th century BCE tombs, the ruins of both Greek and Roman occupations spread across the surrounding landscape. Extensive public baths, an enormous stadium, and a magnificent amphitheatre mark the remains of Roman and Greek architectural additions. But as everywhere in Lycia, the phantoms of the past inhabit the present, in sarcophagi tumbled in the debris or sitting atop pillars in what had been open agoras or markets.
These pillar tombs are less common, but two pillars have proved of particular interest to archaeologists. In nearby Xanthos stands the remains of the Harpy Tomb decorated with carved reliefs of female winged figures ( known in Greek mythology as Harpies). Researchers now believe that these are not the Greek deities but perhaps earlier Lycian ones.
The other pillar of importance is an extraordinary obelisk – the Xanthian Stele. The inscriptions on it include two forms of Lycian writing as well as Ancient Greek. Archaeologists believe it could prove to be the key to deciphering some of the few remaining examples of Lycian script.
The capital of Lycia and its largest city state was Patara, and it was here that the Lycian government met. Patara’s ancient ruins are among the most impressive in the region. Here too, the inevitable hollow tombs loom over the more recent Greco-Roman remains. A shepherdess shading under her colourful umbrella catches my eye. I watch as, with sublime disregard for all the history surrounding her, she follows her grazing flock as they scavenge among ancient stones for fresh grass.
I try to find my own sense of the significance of this place as I walk the broad boulevard lined by Ionic columns, imagining this as a bustling port city, its citizens hurrying between the agora and the Bouleuterion or assembly hall of the Lycian League. Constructed in the early 1st century BC, this building has been one of the Turkish government’s major projects of reconstruction at this site. It once held more 1,400 people. What grand speeches might have been made to the throngs who attended government meetings in this imposing edifice.
However, we cannot disregard Patara’s other significant claim to fame. This was the birthplace of Saint Nicholas, also known as Santa Claus or Father Christmas.
Born in the 3rd century to wealthy parents, Nicholas was orphaned by an epidemic. He used his inherited wealth to help the poor, and became known for his kindness and generosity. He would later become the Bishop of Myra, an ancient city which was visited by St. Paul in the 4th century BCE. Here, his eponymous church celebrates the life of Nicholas with striking murals and icons.
But 400 years later, Arab armies would bring Islam to the region. Today, there is no Christian community in Myra, and St. Nicholas Church is a magnificent museum. Outside it stands a statue of the saint with happy children holding what appear to be Christmas gifts. And in both Patara and Myra, restaurants with names like Noel Baba (Father Christmas) and gift shops selling photos and statues of the saint, remind visitors of his importance in history.
Indeed, history is probably Türkiye’s most compelling attraction. Spanning both sides of the Bosphorus, this is one of only two countries (Russia being the other) that can claim to be both Asian and European. Its unique position and the contributions of many different conquering nations have created a country of remarkable cultural diversity. And in Lycia, this convergence of cultures and religions is particularly evident.
Each year, thousands of walkers strike out along the Lycian Way. This 760 km hiking trail meanders up hills and down along the Turquoise Coast, weaving through small villages, historic ruins, and offering awe-inspiring scenery. For most walkers, two things stand out – those magnificent coastal views, and stumbling across ancient ruins with their ubiquitous cliff tombs.
In 1956, Freya Stark, famed British explorer, and one of the world’s first travel writers, described Lycia perfectly, “There are not so many places left where magic reigns without interruption, and of all those I know, the coast of Lycia was the most magical.”
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