The barren border crossing building at Paso de Jama, between Chile and Argentina in the Andes, has a distinct lack of noise as travellers slowly shuffle their dusty backpacks forward in a semblance of lines. I stare out the open window where a yawning blue sky meets the dry desert. Voices come in like muted echoes and I work my jaw to no avail. My left eardrum is … [Read more...]